Sat on a serac...

Sat on a serac..., originally uploaded by slack---line.

Better late than never...

Well it seems I'm as good at keeping a blog as I am at diaries, i.e. completely useless!!

A fortnight ago I went to Lundy Island for a weeks climbing. Absolutely superb! We had a wonderful weeks climbing with gorgeous weather. The only down side was that most people were affected to varying extents by some illness that was sweeping the island which curtailed climbing for a day or so.

Full set of pics (not many of climbing though) at my flickr account.

Rock on Rock

After being given the all-clear at the Northern General fracture clinic on 10^th July and told that I need to exercise my shoulder as much as possible to rebuild the muscle thats wasted away after a month of being neglected I got the first opportunity to head out onto the rock on Monday (16^th July).

My brother and I opted to go to Baslow as its a short walk-in and with lots of easy routes and likely to be very quiet. All of this was true, although there were a couple of other people out climbing. Gary hasn't done any climbing in some time, but cleanly lead a short Severe with a worringly hollow flake in the middle. Unfortunately by the time I got to the top the big rain cloud that had been lurking over Calver had worked its way over our heads and proceeded to soak us, so it was time to pack up and dash back to the car.

A bit of a disappointment only getting one climb in, but my shoulder and finger weren't stressed by the climbing in the slightest (perhaps this is one way to improve my foorwork!).

The forecast for today isn't great, but hopefully we can head out for a climb after work today. Probably back to Baslow to get more mileage in on easy climbs.

Pain in the....

...shoulder!!

I went out climbing yesterday to meet up with my old boss Jane and her family. It was rather hot out at Stanage and after meeting at Crow's Chin we decided to move along to a quieter buttress. I led Missing Numbers (HVS 5b) and found the top to be a bit slippy given the heat and had to take a short rest before topping out, but a very nice route.

Andy (Jane's husband) then led Exodus (HVS 5a) which was also very pleasent.

I then had a go at leading Leviticus (HVS 5b) and after placing a No. 2 rock low down went for the crux, which I was trying by som precarious lay-backing. Unfortunately a little too precarious as I started to bran-door then slipped off, ripping my gear out.

Falling from 2-2.5m I luckily managed to land in-between the boulders at the bottom, but landed on my shoulder and left-hand side of my body. It knocked a fair amount of wind out of me to say the least!!! Jane and Andy were both excellent, calming me down, helping me get my harness and shoes off ad carrying my bag down whilst I headed off with their daughters Emily and Harriet.

A trip to A&E at the Northern General Hospital and a series of x-rays confirmed that I'd fractured my left scapula (shoulder-blade), but managed to avoid any other serious injury.

So I'm sat typing with one arm as the other is immobilised in a sling. Off to see an Orthopaedic Surgeon tomorrow to find out if I need surgery, but it'll be at least a couple of months before I'm climbing again :-(

Thanks to Jane and Andy for getting me to the hospital.

Inconsistent

I really need to get my arse in gear and write things up more regularly.

Last Sunday I went out with the intention of riding to Bell Hagg for a spot of bouldering, but Mat called to say he and Sophie were heading up to Burbage North for the day, so I altered my plans and met them out there.

Had a fun day in gorgeous weather doing routes at the southern end, although since I only had my shoes and chalk (no harness) it was a bit of a hassle changing over harness' so frequently.

Mat lead Amazon Crack (** HS 4b, see below) and Tharf Cake (HVS 5a) and Sophie lead her first grit routes Right Studio Climb (VD) Wobblestone Crack (HVD) and Left Recess Crack (S).



I reled Right Fin (HVS 5a) and then Obscenity Crack (*** VS 4c) which was a nice chimney you can get your whole body stuck into to work you way up to the crux.

Whilst there I had a good look at the The Fin (E1 5b) and decided that I should give it a go.

So last night Dan and I headed back out to Burbage Borth and I had a go at leading The Fin. Gear placements are excellent at the bottom with two bomber placements protecting the hard bit at the bottom which is getting into the crack (you can even sit down to place the lower one!). After getting stood up I placed a third piece of gear higher in the crack as my hand-jam was slowly slipping out, but managed to clip the gear and readjust the hand-jam, a few tentative moves with the feet to get a little higher and......I was knackered!

I had to admit defeat and despite two more attempts didn't get any higher.

Definately going to go back and try this again (when I'm a bit stronger!!!).

No pictures, but on Saturday Mat came to visit and we went out to Bamford Edge for the afternoon. Despite it being grey and overcast we had a good afternoons climbing at Gunbuttress and Porthole Buttress. I led Randy's Wall (** HVS 5a), Gunpowder Crack (** VS 5b) and Plimsoll Line (HVS 5b) whilst Mat led Shadow Wall (* VS 4c) and Moglichkeit (HS 4b). A little bouldering and then home via The Vine for dinner.

Went out to Burbage North last night for the first time since I got back in the country. It was a gorgeous evening with clear blue skies and lovely and warm.

Warmed up by leading Greeny Crack (VS 4b), then followed Dan up Rose Flake (VS 4b)



All in all a wonderful

Del led Amazon Crack (HS 4b), before I romped up Right Fin (HVS 5a). Dan finished the evening off by leading Long Tall Sally (E1 5b)



Then we watched the sun setting before heading home.