Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Better late than never...

Well it seems I'm as good at keeping a blog as I am at diaries, i.e. completely useless!!

A fortnight ago I went to Lundy Island for a weeks climbing. Absolutely superb! We had a wonderful weeks climbing with gorgeous weather. The only down side was that most people were affected to varying extents by some illness that was sweeping the island which curtailed climbing for a day or so.

Full set of pics (not many of climbing though) at my flickr account.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Rock on Rock

After being given the all-clear at the Northern General fracture clinic on 10th July and told that I need to exercise my shoulder as much as possible to rebuild the muscle thats wasted away after a month of being neglected I got the first opportunity to head out onto the rock on Monday (16th July).

My brother and I opted to go to Baslow as its a short walk-in and with lots of easy routes and likely to be very quiet. All of this was true, although there were a couple of other people out climbing. Gary hasn't done any climbing in some time, but cleanly lead a short Severe with a worringly hollow flake in the middle. Unfortunately by the time I got to the top the big rain cloud that had been lurking over Calver had worked its way over our heads and proceeded to soak us, so it was time to pack up and dash back to the car.

A bit of a disappointment only getting one climb in, but my shoulder and finger weren't stressed by the climbing in the slightest (perhaps this is one way to improve my foorwork!).

The forecast for today isn't great, but hopefully we can head out for a climb after work today. Probably back to Baslow to get more mileage in on easy climbs.

Monday, June 11, 2007

Pain in the....


I went out climbing yesterday to meet up with my old boss Jane and her family. It was rather hot out at Stanage and after meeting at Crow's Chin we decided to move along to a quieter buttress. I led Missing Numbers (HVS 5b) and found the top to be a bit slippy given the heat and had to take a short rest before topping out, but a very nice route.

Andy (Jane's husband) then led Exodus (HVS 5a) which was also very pleasent.

I then had a go at leading Leviticus (HVS 5b) and after placing a No. 2 rock low down went for the crux, which I was trying by som precarious lay-backing. Unfortunately a little too precarious as I started to bran-door then slipped off, ripping my gear out.

Falling from 2-2.5m I luckily managed to land in-between the boulders at the bottom, but landed on my shoulder and left-hand side of my body. It knocked a fair amount of wind out of me to say the least!!! Jane and Andy were both excellent, calming me down, helping me get my harness and shoes off ad carrying my bag down whilst I headed off with their daughters Emily and Harriet.

A trip to A&E at the Northern General Hospital and a series of x-rays confirmed that I'd fractured my left scapula (shoulder-blade), but managed to avoid any other serious injury.

So I'm sat typing with one arm as the other is immobilised in a sling. Off to see an Orthopaedic Surgeon tomorrow to find out if I need surgery, but it'll be at least a couple of months before I'm climbing again :-(

Thanks to Jane and Andy for getting me to the hospital.

Wednesday, June 06, 2007


I really need to get my arse in gear and write things up more regularly.

Last Sunday I went out with the intention of riding to Bell Hagg for a spot of bouldering, but Mat called to say he and Sophie were heading up to Burbage North for the day, so I altered my plans and met them out there.

Had a fun day in gorgeous weather doing routes at the southern end, although since I only had my shoes and chalk (no harness) it was a bit of a hassle changing over harness' so frequently.

Mat lead Amazon Crack (** HS 4b, see below) and Tharf Cake (HVS 5a) and Sophie lead her first grit routes Right Studio Climb (VD) Wobblestone Crack (HVD) and Left Recess Crack (S).

Amazon Crack, Burbage North

I reled Right Fin (HVS 5a) and then Obscenity Crack (*** VS 4c) which was a nice chimney you can get your whole body stuck into to work you way up to the crux.

Whilst there I had a good look at the The Fin (E1 5b) and decided that I should give it a go.

So last night Dan and I headed back out to Burbage Borth and I had a go at leading The Fin. Gear placements are excellent at the bottom with two bomber placements protecting the hard bit at the bottom which is getting into the crack (you can even sit down to place the lower one!). After getting stood up I placed a third piece of gear higher in the crack as my hand-jam was slowly slipping out, but managed to clip the gear and readjust the hand-jam, a few tentative moves with the feet to get a little higher and......I was knackered!

I had to admit defeat and despite two more attempts didn't get any higher.

Definately going to go back and try this again (when I'm a bit stronger!!!).

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

No pictures, but on Saturday Mat came to visit and we went out to Bamford Edge for the afternoon. Despite it being grey and overcast we had a good afternoons climbing at Gunbuttress and Porthole Buttress. I led Randy's Wall (** HVS 5a), Gunpowder Crack (** VS 5b) and Plimsoll Line (HVS 5b) whilst Mat led Shadow Wall (* VS 4c) and Moglichkeit (HS 4b). A little bouldering and then home via The Vine for dinner.

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Went out to Burbage North last night for the first time since I got back in the country. It was a gorgeous evening with clear blue skies and lovely and warm.

Warmed up by leading Greeny Crack (VS 4b), then followed Dan up Rose Flake (VS 4b)

There's a hold up there somewhere!

All in all a wonderful

Del led Amazon Crack (HS 4b), before I romped up Right Fin (HVS 5a). Dan finished the evening off by leading Long Tall Sally (E1 5b)

Long Tall Dan.

Then we watched the sun setting before heading home.

Peak Sunset

Friday, May 11, 2007

I had a nice weekend in Font over the bank holiday with some old friends I've not seen in a number of years. The weather was fairly kind and we got out every day and had a really good time. Unfortunately I was too busy climbing to take any pictures, but I'm being sent some and will add them in due course.

Last night we went out to Wharncliffe for an evenings climbing. Here's a shot of Del leading the *** Tower Face (HS 4b).

Come here hold...

Thursday, May 03, 2007

Went out to Stanage on Wednesday for a climb and only realised when racking up that I'd forgotten my climbing shoes!!!

Still I led the delicate Fairy Steps (** VS 4a) which was great fun and a route I've had my eye on since getting back from Australia.

I then took pics of Dan leading and Rob following on Tower Wall (*** HVS 5a).

This route looks excellent, and I'm going to go back and try the Direct in the near future.

Off to Font this evening for a long weekend, can't wait!

Whats in there?


Sunshine's out of his arse...

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Not many posts here recently, although I have been out climbing a few times over the past month or so (although not over the last fortnight as play was stopped due to attending my brothers wedding). Before that though we got out to Castle Naze on a windy day for some fun.

Here's a shot of me making the crux move (basically getting off the deck) on The Cracks (VS 5a)
Thin Cracks (VS 5a)

T'was a bit windy that day, and play was hindered slightly as my brother forgot his harness (hence why he was taking pictures), but fun was had by all.