Monday, June 11, 2007

Pain in the....


I went out climbing yesterday to meet up with my old boss Jane and her family. It was rather hot out at Stanage and after meeting at Crow's Chin we decided to move along to a quieter buttress. I led Missing Numbers (HVS 5b) and found the top to be a bit slippy given the heat and had to take a short rest before topping out, but a very nice route.

Andy (Jane's husband) then led Exodus (HVS 5a) which was also very pleasent.

I then had a go at leading Leviticus (HVS 5b) and after placing a No. 2 rock low down went for the crux, which I was trying by som precarious lay-backing. Unfortunately a little too precarious as I started to bran-door then slipped off, ripping my gear out.

Falling from 2-2.5m I luckily managed to land in-between the boulders at the bottom, but landed on my shoulder and left-hand side of my body. It knocked a fair amount of wind out of me to say the least!!! Jane and Andy were both excellent, calming me down, helping me get my harness and shoes off ad carrying my bag down whilst I headed off with their daughters Emily and Harriet.

A trip to A&E at the Northern General Hospital and a series of x-rays confirmed that I'd fractured my left scapula (shoulder-blade), but managed to avoid any other serious injury.

So I'm sat typing with one arm as the other is immobilised in a sling. Off to see an Orthopaedic Surgeon tomorrow to find out if I need surgery, but it'll be at least a couple of months before I'm climbing again :-(

Thanks to Jane and Andy for getting me to the hospital.

Wednesday, June 06, 2007


I really need to get my arse in gear and write things up more regularly.

Last Sunday I went out with the intention of riding to Bell Hagg for a spot of bouldering, but Mat called to say he and Sophie were heading up to Burbage North for the day, so I altered my plans and met them out there.

Had a fun day in gorgeous weather doing routes at the southern end, although since I only had my shoes and chalk (no harness) it was a bit of a hassle changing over harness' so frequently.

Mat lead Amazon Crack (** HS 4b, see below) and Tharf Cake (HVS 5a) and Sophie lead her first grit routes Right Studio Climb (VD) Wobblestone Crack (HVD) and Left Recess Crack (S).

Amazon Crack, Burbage North

I reled Right Fin (HVS 5a) and then Obscenity Crack (*** VS 4c) which was a nice chimney you can get your whole body stuck into to work you way up to the crux.

Whilst there I had a good look at the The Fin (E1 5b) and decided that I should give it a go.

So last night Dan and I headed back out to Burbage Borth and I had a go at leading The Fin. Gear placements are excellent at the bottom with two bomber placements protecting the hard bit at the bottom which is getting into the crack (you can even sit down to place the lower one!). After getting stood up I placed a third piece of gear higher in the crack as my hand-jam was slowly slipping out, but managed to clip the gear and readjust the hand-jam, a few tentative moves with the feet to get a little higher and......I was knackered!

I had to admit defeat and despite two more attempts didn't get any higher.

Definately going to go back and try this again (when I'm a bit stronger!!!).