Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Inconsistent

I really need to get my arse in gear and write things up more regularly.

Last Sunday I went out with the intention of riding to Bell Hagg for a spot of bouldering, but Mat called to say he and Sophie were heading up to Burbage North for the day, so I altered my plans and met them out there.

Had a fun day in gorgeous weather doing routes at the southern end, although since I only had my shoes and chalk (no harness) it was a bit of a hassle changing over harness' so frequently.

Mat lead Amazon Crack (** HS 4b, see below) and Tharf Cake (HVS 5a) and Sophie lead her first grit routes Right Studio Climb (VD) Wobblestone Crack (HVD) and Left Recess Crack (S).

Amazon Crack, Burbage North

I reled Right Fin (HVS 5a) and then Obscenity Crack (*** VS 4c) which was a nice chimney you can get your whole body stuck into to work you way up to the crux.

Whilst there I had a good look at the The Fin (E1 5b) and decided that I should give it a go.

So last night Dan and I headed back out to Burbage Borth and I had a go at leading The Fin. Gear placements are excellent at the bottom with two bomber placements protecting the hard bit at the bottom which is getting into the crack (you can even sit down to place the lower one!). After getting stood up I placed a third piece of gear higher in the crack as my hand-jam was slowly slipping out, but managed to clip the gear and readjust the hand-jam, a few tentative moves with the feet to get a little higher and......I was knackered!

I had to admit defeat and despite two more attempts didn't get any higher.

Definately going to go back and try this again (when I'm a bit stronger!!!).

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